Wild coastlines and warm welcomes on the Chatham Islands
- Julian Tovey
- Sep 26
- 3 min read
Updated: Sep 27
Departing for Rēkohu/Wharekauri, or Chatham Islands, it feels like you’ve stepped back to a bygone era.
Nervously clutching a simple boarding pass with only our names and the date, we joined the 11 other passengers filing on board the aircraft. Each person was greeted by name, which it turns out, is not surprising on an island with around 700 residents. When it was our turn, she warmly invited us to ‘pick any seat down the back’. Obviously used to the routine, the local passengers chatted away as all the spare room in the cabin got filled up with commercial chilly bins destined to be filled with fresh seafood.
Stepping off the plane after the one and a half hour flight, we were warmly greeted by one of our hosts, Greg Horler. To help us stretch our legs, he took us on a visit to the basalt columns, one of the fascinating geological features where volcanic, metamorphic and sedimentary rocks are found in close proximity on this relatively small island.
Back at the lodge, we met his wife, Rosemarie. It was the first time we’d met them in person, but we quickly felt like part of the family. Greg came over from the South Island at age 16 for a shearing job at Awarakau Farm. “I fell in love with the farmer’s daughter, and never left,” he explains with a chuckle. That was more than 40 years ago, but Rosemarie has a much longer history with the island. With a mix of Moriori, Māori and Paheka heritage, her family has worked the 1100-acre farm for six generations, since the 1800’s.
Over a delicious 3-course meal at the lodge - cooked by Rosemarie and filled with local fare - we learned more about the deep history of the island, and the unique culture of the community. With flights subject to weather, and only one cargo ship every 2 weeks or so, the isolation here means the locals are resourceful, resilient and multi-talented. As well as running the farm and lodge, Greg dives for Paua, fixes all of the farm machinery and serves on the Chatham Islands Council.
In the days that followed, we visited many of the special locations around the island, including rugged shorelines, forest walks, plus seal and bird colonies.
Another unique visit was to the Sunderland Flying Boat restoration project. A relic from the Second World War, in 1959 this aircraft hit a submerged rock during take-off, but managed to limp to shallow water. The Air Force stripped off the most valuable parts, and local farmers took up the invitation to recover and restore the body.
Back at Awarakau Lodge, Greg and Rosemarie’s grown-up children popped round for a cuppa. “Everyone leaves the island for high school,” explains Rosemarie. “But after a taste of the big wide world, many come back here to raise their families. There’s just something so special about living here.”
And we couldn’t agree more. The rugged and harsh coastlines are in perfect contrast to the warm and close-knit community. Life here is a lot simpler; there’s so much more time for people and connection.
The surprise at the end of our journey was three bonus days on the island! Poor weather delayed our flight, but the silver lining was more time with our hosts and the other characters of the Chathams. News of the delay spread quickly, and people we bumped into were asking if we had what we needed - last week we’d arrived as guests, but now, we were truly staying like locals.
Our next 8-day Chatham Island tour is 20-27 November 2025, with a second departure 12-19 March 2026. You'll get the chance to become friends with Greg and Rosemarie, explore the rugged coastlines, taste the local produce, hear the rich history and become honorary locals. Visit the Chatham Island tour page for more information or to book your spot.
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